I expected Mayotte to be more like ReUnion without the spectacular scenery. And it was in some ways. Same language anyways. (French) Same easy check in. same Jumbos supermarket, and Mr Bricolage.
But in many ways it just wasn’t like ReUnion at all. Different culture…different religion.Different look. A LOT of trash everywhere…almost like being back in Indonesia. Definitely does NOT feel First world. More like “second world” if there is such a thing!
ReUnion…The health care was top notch, more modern than the US. Like French is suppose to be. French is the best in the world for health care. And Reunion doesn’t fall short of that. Many doctors, many dentists, impeccable services and infrastructure are there. Lots of modern supermarkets, a real first world experience where people seem happy, satisfied, in passionate love with where they live. When in ReUnion, people speak about their country of France. You are considered to be hook line and sinker, IN France. When asked where they vacation, they name a beach on the other side of their island..in France. They ask why would we leave here…it’s paradise.
In Mayotte…it’s not like this. People talk about flying to France on their vacations, or other places, and how this is NOT France here. And they are quick to tell you what’s not so great about the place.
We planned on using some health care services here in Mayotte, but the hospital we walked in to closed to our anchorage resembled any third world hospital with long lines, 1940 looking examinations rooms and offices and instruments, and about 3 doctors and nurses staffing the entire operation. Lines of people slumped on benches waiting…sleeping they had been there so long. We found no signs for private dentists and doctors just this one loan hospital with trash in its yard, decaying benches, overgrown bushes. The one dentist is gone for 2 weeks.
There was one modern supermarket, but the rest of them, well…not so great. Not Reunion at least. There were a few chain stores, but they were small and woefully understocked. The expats we met were quick to explain about the immigration problems and why there were 75 students in every classroom rather than the prescribed 20. The teachers explained that not everyone went to school regularly so all students in a certain grade were at vastly different levels. When asked how much longer they will work here, they say they aren’t sure it will be good for them to stay much longer. There was a strike just 6 months ago where everything just got shut down, road blocks, riots…empty shelves at the grocery store. They say it’s becuase some are so u happy and are trying to show French that they all feel forgotten about…that there are immense problems here that France doesn’t see or doesn’t address. There is a lot of discontentment, and resentment that France isn’t doing enough here. They are certainly not doing here what they do in ReUnion…that is clear to my outsider eye.
You see, the Comoros included Mayotte until several decades ago. Then there was a vote, and all of the islands except Mayotte voted for independence from France. So everyone lost their financial support and infrastructure improvements except for Mayotte. When people on the surrounding islands realized this, many tried to flee to Mayotte, on small boats or through claims that they were actually from Mayotte…trying to have the benefits of being part of France. People try to bare their children here to have a French passport. Many of them are uneducated and unemployable. When they arrive here they pick the fruit off the trees, and they steel from their neighbor…like where they are from…because it’s not steeling there…it’s sharing. The culture has grown to be quite different here from Comoros, but the Comoro people know no other way to live. Work…get a job and pay for fruits? Thievery is a big problem here, and it’s reportedly turning to violence more and more often. And the Comorans probably feel resentment that their ancestors, their very own people, don’t want to share the fruits they have been given. It’s probably dividing people more than we can see. I most definitely don’t have the whole story or both sides of the story…this is just what I have been told in more than one conversation with local expats from France who are here on extended work engagements.
They say that the schools and hospitals are so severely taxed by the extra population utilizing these services, that the remaining doctors, nurses, and teachers just can’t do a proper job. There isn’t enough medicine. There isn’t enough structure, there aren’t enough beds and professionals. The infrastructure can not support the people that are here. Not that it feels overcrowded…because it’s not. It’s just that France thinks they are supporting an infrastructure of X number of people while in reality it’s 5 or 10 times that number. I got practically offered a job teaching within 48 hours of arriving they are so desperate for help in the schools.
We are sad that the fantastic weather window we have tomorrow is forcing us to leave Mayotte earlier than expected. We haven’t seen the volcanic crater lake. We haven’t visited the anchorage with clear water, abundant turtles, lemurs in the baobab trees. We have so much to learn about this interesting place and the people who live here. Next time…I hope there is a next time when we have more time.
Would I recommend a cruiser to go to Mayotte? Well, I always feel that every country has its ups and downs for cruisers. Lucky for us we can partake in the good, and save other islands for what we can’t partake in here. Too bad for the people who live here. They don’t have that luxury.
Here are Mayotte’s ups and downs in my opinion…specifically for a cruiser.
UPS
FREE clearance in to country…just a $6 r/t taxi to the airport. No hassles with clearance. A one page form. No questions asked. 3 month stamp. No boat searches or health checks or BS.
Clear water, clean air except at the BBQ stands. You can likely make water while on a mooring or at anchor here, though maybe not at the marina on the mainland.
There is free drinkable tap water available in the restaurants that we drank with no ill effects.
Very few mosquitos.
Possibly a free mooring from the yacht club for your entire stay like we have been graciously lended by the yacht club
Cheap drinking at the yacht club…$1.50 per glass wine and it’s decent wine. $1.50 for a Licorice cocktail that is a “French” thing, and quite tasty and very strong. Nice comraderie at the club…many interesting people to chat with who own big boats here and very much sailing enthusiasts
Free internet throughout the anchorage whether from yacht club or other open signals which are of reasonable speed…(not great for videos or Skype most if the time however may be better right AT the yacht club)
Big modern grocery store to stock up on everything french and delicious.
Honest taxi drivers. You don’t even have to ask how much when you get in. It’s just a standard per person fare. They will chase you down to give you your change! And the fares are reasonable. Fairly long rides for €1.40 per person.
Protected anchorage in S and East winds. NE Winds get a little bumpy but still fine.
Free floating Dingy dock where no one seems to be having issues. Most boats and motors are unlocked.
$2.50 washing machines at yacht club.
Friendly welcoming people at yacht club with English spoken by charging degrees.
Unlimited consistent supply of water in the showers at the yacht club free for use.
ATM at the ferry/Dingy dock…
Nice people everywhere….colorful clothing, and beautiful smiles
Lots of nice anchorages that we unfortunately did not get to explore..many with free moorings
Great music on the radio
Excellent veggie market either across on ferry or after a longish walk at the anchorage.
water tap at yacht club that at high tide you can fill jugs in your Dingy. We think this is free, but we did not partake in it since we are still nearly full from Madagascar a few weeks ago.
smooth sailing inside a protected lagoon
large sailing community with many interesting people who speak a bit of English too!
DOWNS
If you can’t get a mooring, the anchoring is deep, and while we held steady in 15-20 knots of wind for 36 hours in 55 feet of water, we were happy to be offered a mooring by the yacht club, because I’m not sure we would have been ok when the winds piped up to 30+.
groceries, even veggies and bread…are very expensive..(outweighed by high quality and selection in my opinion!)
expensive bottled water if you must have it.
Eating out is very expensive so we only had a few meals ashore
Nothing but the yacht club and a few restaurants and the (very good) veggie market, are within walking distance of anchorage. If you are an avid walker, there is more…possibly walk in, taxi back.
Said to be unsafe on mainland in particular at night…so for us at least, little nightlife was partaken of, which is a shame because there is a lot on offer.
Fear of a Strike or shutdown at any time due to not understanding the French news channels. This may be over exaggerated in my head…I just did not know if what happened 6 months ago here could possibly effect us, so it didn’t feel carefree here.
French language…hard to really get to know people. But there ARE some English speakers. Some people really like practicing their English. The yacht club is the best place for this.
People don’t seem that happy…or at least not as happy and content as in ReUnion….they seem concerned…stressed. Exceptions to every rule of course.
By the time you read this…we will be sailing away…and won’t have internet for a while.
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