Brick House Dismasted in Kiribati, the middle of the Pacific!

This post recounts the moments following the dismasting disaster about the dismasting of our Bluewater sailboat, a Valiant 40, ‘Brick House’, in 2011, while sailing in the remote atolls of Kiribati, enroute to Vanuatu in the South Pacific

DISMASTED
Again my head slammed into the bent and mangled mast. What had appeared a rolly anchorage amongst coral reefs was a Twirl-A-Ride at the top of our broken mast stump. The other mast half was folded over the side of the boat, dipping in the water.

Tethered 20 feet above the deck the words of Bill Seifert in his book Offshore Sailing were being bounced out of my memory. “Cotter pins should not be bent open more than 10 degrees.” Cotter pins which were bent open at a small angle, holding dangling rigging, were easy to slip free from the clevis. The pins bent into a curlicue were taking all my effort, strength and patience to bend straight with pliers and small screwdrivers. They were becoming a real headache, in every form.

The day before, when sailing south in sunshine and gentle breeze, the squall had come on us suddenly. Rebecca, and I were below as the wind slammed. But it was only 30 knots; wind this boat can easily handle although I would have preferred to shorten sail. As I moved to the wheel to turn downwind to ease the pressure, I heard a pop and watched the top of the mast along with reefed mainsail and genoa, fold gracefully to starboard; the mast creasing just below the spreaders. Situations I had read and heard about in wild weather in terrible latitudes were now upon my wife and me. The big difference was that we were dressed in shorts and T-shirts 95 miles south of the equator and 307 miles west of the International Date Line, near the southern stretch of the Kirabati atolls.

With the wind dropping and rain slowing, Rebecca stood eagerly on deck asking what she could do to help. But where do you start to pick up a disaster when everything broken is high overhead or in the water out of reach? I too was at a loss, responding “Tell ME what to do!”
Then the mast section sticking up from the deck jerked sharply to starboard as though it could be twisted out of shape. That marked the starting point. We had already turned downwind to ease the rolling but the jib furler and genoa dragging in the water were still attached to the top of the mast which was also scraping the ocean with each roll of the boat. The sail, having opened like a baleen’s mouth, transferred tremendous pressure, torquing what remained of the unsupported rig. It became obvious that the immediate job was to dive into the ocean and cut the genoa halyard free of the dragging and plunging mast tip and pull the toggle pin to free the head stay and genoa furler. But the boat could leave me behind creating an additional unpleasant situation. We looked over the sides and pulled what wet sails and lines we could find inside of the lifelines before starting the engine. Shifting into reverse at idle, the tortured genoa wallowed and collapsed its load of ocean and sat there undulating like a large Dacron jellyfish.Although Brick House was no longer moving, I wore a life jacket and rope tether for my initial time in the ocean. If I were injured or the boat began to move again, this would give Rebecca a lifeline to me. Later, swim fins without a lifejacket gave me the mobility needed to complete the work.With the ocean and mast moving in syncopated directions, the work was dangerous and difficult, limiting me to intermittent attempts at freeing the sail hanging from the upside-down mast. The biggest threat was being punched in the head or shoulders by the mast slamming then pulling back from the ocean. I was watchful, but with one plunge I was unable to move quick enough. In nanoseconds, I had the frightening feeling of terrible injury as growing pressure seemed intent to pierce my thigh; but the offending VHF antenna bent like a child’s sword leaving me only with a feeling of good luck. As soon as the genoa was freed from the mast, Rebecca stopped the engine and together we hauled the sail and furling gear on board.

It was the failure of the port upper shroud chainplate that caused the mast to fold. In the fall, the upper shroud wrapped over the top of the stump pulling with it, 4 feet into the air, a 5 gallon jug of outboard gasoline. The gas spilled a slippery, smelly slick on the port side deck which added to our difficulties. The other shrouds lay in a mass of stiff spaghetti snaking around the deck.

We did not want to pull pins or cut cables and heave equipment overboard. We needed to save and rebuild everything we could. Besides, with a keel stepped mast, there is no way to jettison a bent and toppled mast without first cutting it through at deck level.

It took hours to regain order and secure supports to the dragging mast head. We hardly noticed the sun disappearing till we could see no more. But now we could not risk starting the engine for a second time without first entering the dark ocean and verify fully nothing would tangle in the propeller.

Our underwater light was invaluable this evening. Normally I plunge the reefs in daylight looking for sizable fish to pursue. Tonight I entered the black ocean slowly, the narrow beam of light searching for the profile and glinting eyes of large pursuers. But in the glow, the keel of Brick House and I were the only things swimming. Everything below the waterline looked tranquil except for the boarding ladder which rolled and bubbled deep in white foam then rose again. We could start the engine and be on our way. Click,click,click. How could this be? The only time in four years, when I most need the engine to start, and it won’t turn over even though the battery is fully charged! Click, click, click. Unbelievable. I am always in the engine room checking, cleaning, changing. Click, click. I had visions of now jury rig sailing southwest, 960 miles to Vanuatu. Rebecca put the battery selector to “Both”. The engine dragged slowly then revved and purred. At no time after this did the engine ever falter to start!

The north end of Tabiteuea is not an atoll but a long, low coconut island open to the west. It was the least bumpy anchorage we could reach in our situation. We had all night to pass the 25 miles to get there. Only when the sun was high did we slowly wind through the uncharted labyrinth of coral till our way was fully blocked, two miles from shore.

In the light of a new day, Rebecca was incredibly despondent looking at our broken home. I reminded her about the quote; “The difference between adversity and adventure is attitude.” I asked, “Isn’t this an adventure?!” Her eyes reddened and watered, “We are ruined…this is nothing but a disaster!!!” In reality our situation could have been worse. At least we had our rudder and plenty of diesel fuel. But she pointed out, “If we had only known to change the chain plate we would be on our way to Vanuatu or Rotuma.”

In my diligence to shine our stainless steel, I had been polishing away the evidence. At the top of the chainplate, a second layer of steel had been welded to add thickness for the clevis pin to pull against. Moisture had been seeping between the two metals at the clevis pin hole. That chainplate was going to break and with luck it failed where an anchorage was not far away. I should have inspected the chainplates with a magnifying glass and crack exposing dye or, better yet, replaced them on a scheduled basis like we do the wire stays.

In our bumpy anchorage the first task was to save the main sail. When the mast folded, the main sail slides did the splits; one group stayed on the vertical mast stump and the remaining were stuck in the fallen section. The stress stopped at a point which allowed the sail to spread but not enough to tear it apart. The first order was to reach the uppermost slide on the stump and cut the tabbing or pull the pin on the slide to relieve the pressure. Using the halyard brakes for steps, just enough of a toe hold allowed the proper reach. With that release of pressure the remaining slides on one side of the sail slid off the bent mast into the ocean. The other slides were released from the mast at the gooseneck. The mainsail was then flaked onto the boom and covered with the sail cover.

The next problem was to figure out how to get to the top of the stump. From there I could then release more dangling wires, secure rope stays all around and set blocks for halyards. Lacking the native skills to climb coconut palms, we decided to first get a messenger line over the mast to which a stronger line would follow.

The one firearm we have on board is a high powered slingshot. It seemed reasonably simple to shoot a projectile with kite string attached over the mast. The problem was, no matter how carefully the string was flaked in preparation for the shot, the run would snag on the slightest resistance and pull itself into a tangle. Far more time was spent untangling cats cradles than slinging out the projectile. We pulled out the heavy artillery. The monkey’s fist is a hardball of zinc artfully wrapped in rope and tied to 3/16″ line. Although cushioned by the wounds of line, the fist can smash solar panels and split deck hatches. As I was gearing up for my aerial bombardment, Rebecca scrambled to spread a bed of cushions.

Throw after throw of the monkey’s fist went high, low, and into left field. Several times the fist draped over a hard spot and doubled back to wind around its trailing line like a tether ball. With great fortune, like a tether ball, it always unwound itself rather than spinning into a knot high out of reach.

I always had a better chance tossing a wringer with my eyes closed. After 18 throws, my tosses became less calculating and more menacing as my eyes squinted tighter. But then, as persistence and luck would have it, the fist sailed in a perfect arch gracefully laying its trailing line over the mast top at just the right angle. This messenger line pulled the 7/16″ diameter line over the mast and was secured to a cleat. To that line was attached the Top Climber.

The Top Climber is similar to what rock climbers or giant Sequoia tree ascenders use. The method is to stand in the foot straps then slide the hand gripper up the line to bring up the seat straps. Sitting in the seat straps, the foot straps are then slid up the line. It is progress which enables the user to easily identify with the mechanics of an inchworm. The system may be slow but it works for unassisted elevating. In a rolly anchorage, a helmet would be useful to ease the battering.

 

If the Top Climber system had not worked, there are two other ways to get to the top of the mast. The same 7/16″ line could pull up a block and tackle to which a bosuns chair is attached. A person in the chair can hoist himself and secure the line to the chair at the proper elevation. Any 50ish man who has used this system says it will tend to cramp the hands and certainly is not as easy to use as it once was. However, a person on deck could assist with the pulling and then secure the line to a deck cleat. The last option is to use the natives of the Pacific as inspiration and simply shinny the mast as it were a coconut palm while wearing a harness. At the top, the tether attached to the harness would be wrapped over the top of the mast and quickly made fast. Hanging there, the lines and pulley necessary for a bosuns chair could be secured before making a decent. This latter method is made even more difficult as hanging in mid air, ones own body weight gradually crushes deeper against the harness straps making movement and breathing difficult. Safe working time is short. While I was aloft on the Top Climber, Rebecca did what she could to steady lines to keep me from swinging and banging so hard against the rigging.

With access to the mast top, I was able only then to see a single bolt head from the running pole slide was all that the rope was truly resting on. A slip off that finger hold and I would have to grab something quickly as my support line would slide down the broken stay, over the spreader and into the ocean. There was little alternative but to stay focused and keep working while keeping constant pressure on the support line. I continued to drop all unnecessary wire stays and salvable electrical fitting from the mast to Rebecca’s waiting hands below. Spare lines from the cockpit locker were wrapped, woven and tied around the stump top to form head stays and back stays and shrouds. From three separate looped lines, 3 blocks were shackled and halyard lines rove. My work aloft, for this rocking anchorage anyway, was complete and I inched my way down with a headache and a several red scrapes and dings.

The first item to be raised on a halyard was the emergency Single Side Band antenna. Ours is a 1/8″ stainless steel wire, insulated on each end with plastic thimbles and tied with lines to the stern and bow pulpit. Plastic water hose was slid to the middle so when raised, the wire would be insulated from contact with the mast. The minimum length for an emergency antenna is 23 feet, the longer the better. Originally intended to go up a masthead halyard, our antenna is 46′ long. GTO-15 wire is the most prescribed wire for connecting the antenna to the antenna tuner but in our case the largest core wire we had on the boat was used. Our emergency antenna worked equally, if not better than the antenna which came down with the rigging. Over the weeks ahead, we would keep in touch with cruisers nets and to begin organizing the repairs of our boat.

There were so many problems for us to solve, we had to discipline ourselves not to race ahead but to complete the most immediate job. When that task was complete then we could advance to the next item on the list. Now that our decks were cleared and organized and the dragging mast section was well supported, we could decide where we should sail for repairs. We could not sever and lower the bent mast to the deck till we reached a calmer anchorage. In the Tabiteuea anchorage it took 3 days to clear the rigging and get order to our decks. As we prepared to leave, we gained a renewed attitude and fortitude to rebuild our bricks.

Mast dragging

An off the wind radius had us looking for possibilities in Vanuautu and as far away as Australia and points north. What we needed most was fast mail and frequent cargo shipping from the U.S., a place to lay out a mast and a crane to lift it. 620 miles northwest lay Majuro, Marshall Islands. That U.S. associated island fit our repair requirements. But the seasonal winds were shifting to north of east which could make it a difficult, if not impossible target. We were racing the seasons with a slow, broken boat. Our first stop would be Tarawa, 225 miles to the northwest.

It must have been that seasonal shift which, for the only time in months, brought settled winds of less than 12 knots and at times a push from abaft the beam. Our odd looking sails assisted the diesel engine gliding us along at the most fuel efficient 1800 RPMs. Two days later we dropped the anchor in Tarawa off the town of Betio.

We found shelter in the middle of the perfectly calm but tiny inner harbor. Working from a bosuns chair, the sawing began where the mast was bent over. It took 3 fully charged batteries for our 18 volt Ryobi cordless reciprocating saw to work its way through most of the metal. This was one time Rebecca appreciated not carrying out her threat to empty my tool locker and refill it with a bicycle or sewing machine.
It was delicate work to guide the saw blade around halyards pinched inside the mast but slicing through the expensive bundle of electrical wires could not be avoided. An arm powered hacksaw blade made the final slices to drop the full weight of the mast section onto two halyards. With help from the crew of SV Summer Sky, it was surprisingly easy slackening one halyard while the safety of the other halyard supported the 150 pound weight of the mast. Near the deck, one halyard was repositioned at the balance point and the spar was rotated to the side deck where it was set on a cushion of fenders. The weight of that mast section was stowed on the starboard which would be the windward side of our next passage.

With a stubby rig that looked like something Shackleton would use to escape his Antarctic adventure, we worked our way north. As we sailed past other atolls we kept to their sheltered west shores and made comfortable progress in unseasonably tranquil conditions. Our bucket of luck was heavily tapped on this 390 mile passage. The customary 18 knot winds and large waves returned only as we picked up a mooring in the safety of Majuro.

At our destination, the tedious work of ordering materials and the wait for them to arrive would begin. Brick House had been cracked but soon it will sail with titanium chainplates and a rig to take us safely to whatever latitude we choose.

Are we insured? Find out How we choose to Insure this old boat!

A Tour of our Valiant 40. The Bluewater Sailboat. What do we like about it? What would we change?

               

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FLASHBACK! The Day We Untied the docklines and left

Patrick and Rebecca 2007!!!

It was September 30, 2007…the day we untied the docklines and finally left to go cruising! This is what I wrote in the journal that day. Both as we untied the lines, and as we arrived in our first port that evening. And then as we began our sail down the coast stopping to say goodbye to friends along the eastern seaboard of the USA. It seems like yesterday, but yet a lifetime ago too.

We have lost touch with almost all of our friends in Rhode Island now, though one the other day told me we are still the topic of conversation at their backyard barbecues. Their children who were in grade school are having children of their own now, and my parents are both going quite grey, while Patrick’s parent have now both passed away. A lot has changed. But a lot has stayed the same too.

This post is dedicated to those friends who still remember us and follow our blog and travels in Rhode Island…

This post is dedicated to our family back home, that although I didn’t shed that tear as I departed in sheer joy, I cry for you every day, and greatly feel the separation that my travel bug induces but that I can’t seem to shake.

We love you all, and being away from you is the WORST part of cruising.

 

The docklines are untied!!

30 September 2007 | Narrangansett Bay, Motoring out to the ocean!
Rebecca Childress
The wind blew from the north all morning which would have been ideal for our long awaited departure, but we still had a few more things to do.
Go pick up the strawberries and the Mikes hard LimeAid from last nights party, go get a new sheave at West Marine that Patrick decided needed to be fixed late last night, and a quart of milk so that we didnt have to unfreeze the milk in the freezer for cereal!
Hand over the car to my friend Tammy who let us keep the car she bought from us, right up to departure when she bought it from us weeks ago! What a gift that was to us.
We untied the docklines as people waved to us and wished us a happy safe journey…some of whom we had never even gotten to really meet due to being so busy this summer, upgrading the boat, and getting ready for this day…
We are leaving so many friends, family, yet I can not shed a tear…I am so excited to be finally underway! Im sure it will hit me soon just how long it will be til I see everyone again! Our final party last night was a “full moon” party, at our dear friends Bill and Dianes house. They have an inground pool that they heated up to 94 degrees, as well as a hot tub!
The best thing said all night to me was ” You told us a year ago youd be going in a year…and here it is – TOMMOROW! You didn’t find any reason not to go or to delay your departure..you set your mind to it and you made it happen! He was right on target with that! How nice it is to be with Patrick- he set his mind to doing this with me many years ago- and here we are, leaving the dock and motoring towards the ocean. We havent even decided where we are going yet! Block Island? Watch Hill? Pt Judith!? Nice to have no destination, no schedule.
Thank you to all of our friends and family who made living on the boat and getting ready to go so much fun! Thank you for following our adventures on this blog and in Blue Water Sailing Magazine! Your hearts, your faces, and all the good times we have had will stay in our hearts wherever we go, and we will see you when we return!

We arrived to our first port of call, New Harbor, Block Island tonight at 8pm

30 September 2007 | Block Island, RI
Rebecca Childress

We arrived in a very dark harbor tonight- the moon was hidden, in to Block Island – New Harbor earlier tonight. We had a wonderful Salmon dinner, spiced potatoes, and a fresh garden salad. We baked chocolate chip cookies for dessert and snacks tomorrow. Patrick is sound asleep and snoring. I am experimenting with electricity ( wind generator), and our fantastic wifi connection in the harbor here. The antenna and wifi card that I bought was money well spent! But what if they break!?!? Better get to bed soon…but wantt to let you know how the first day of our circumnavigation went!!…Patrick mentioned something about jogging the island all day tomorrow so I cant write too much! Its a good thing Tammy made chocolate chip cookie dough for times like these!! We will leave here Tuesday or Wednesday I think. Maybe our friend Bob will come out to sail to somewhere in Long Island Sound with us.

A couple of fun things on the way over to Block Island, out of Newport Harbor:
1. Came up on a little boat, from behind. It was Mariah and her friend Bob out for a daysail on their Oday 22 – the boat I used to own with Mariah. We waved, and said our goodbyes for 4 years. Cutter, her golden retreiver was on the bow with her. It was nice to see her one last time before departing. A million boats in the harbor, and we almost ran her down by accident!
2.I was so ecstatically happy and high on life leaving Newport Harbor, that a boat passed port to port, travelling in the opposite direction, but very close to us. It was a nice family with 2 young kids…I smiled and waved and said – “we are leaving to go around the world – and this is our first day!!!” They smiled and waved and cheered us on. Patrick and I grinned at eachother the whole way to Block Island. I just looked in on him, and hes smiling in his sleep! I’m not sure who is happier to finally be underway, witht he first day of our circumnavation completed..he or I. Its so great that we are both so happy though..its more than I ever dreamed would happen in my little old life! I am sailing around the world – one day at a time! Life could NOT be better! If you think Im really lucky to be doing this…you are 110% correct!

Its already warmer!

03 October 2007 | Westbrook, CT
Rebecca Childress
Yes, I know, we are only 100 miles away at best, but last night we shed 2 layers of blankets, and are back to flipflops this morning! Our friend from Connecticut didnt make the ferry, so he instead met us here to help us in to the dock, and take us out for dinner. He was very kind to us…two Black Douglas Tshirts, a very nice bottle of wine, and a fantastic dinner and wine at a local restaurant. It was a harbor with very shallow water to enter in the dark, but it was worth it for his nice welcome! Today we leave to travel further down the coast, maybe as far as Stamford Ct. The next day…New York City!

Newlyweds on Boat – Week One…Marital Bliss…and Two is a Crowd!

This is a post from our old blog, July 13, 2017. Some of these things we don’t even think about anymore…but some of these things make me laugh…because 11 years later…they are still a pain in the butt! Can you guess which ones?

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We are married now and living aboard!

13 July 2007 | Sakonnet Brewers Marina
Rebecca Childress

Sorry I havent written for a while…a lot has been happening!

Patrick and I got married on the 4th of July. Everything went just the way we planned it, and it was a beautifull memorable day in every way…From walking down the aisle (dock) with my dad, to stopping the progression to have my picture taken with dad by Ian- Patricks brother in law that managed to make it to the wedding despite a death in his family, to almost losing my vail every 60 seconds… Patrick was an unbelievable groom holding my hands through much of the ceremony, and shedding a tear or two during our vows! He made the most eloquent, complimentary toast after the wedding that I will remember forover. Married on the front of the bow, Patrick and I will celebrate every 4th of July for a while, wherever we are in the world, right where we got married- on the bow of our Brick House! The fireworks at the end of the evening on a neighboring tour boat – The Gansett, a beautiful boat from Maine, were fantastic – we were up very close, and despite the pouring rain, we were comfortable, dry , well fed and well lubricated!!It was truly a wonderful day!

Two days after the wedding, we had to prepare our house for our tenants, and for our move on to Brick House.

A couple of thoughts about the process so far ( We have been officially onboard now for 3 days and 2 nights…this being our 3rd.)

1. We are ALWAYS in eachothers way- it takes repacing oneself to just wait for the person to finish what they are doing so you can pass by them. It seems to take Patrick less getting used to than me…maybe he just has more patience. I LOVE being with him all the time and having him so close to me, but it does get annoying to always have to stop dead in my tracks to wait for him to move!! I suppose I will either get used to that, or get more aggravated by it!

2.The refrigeration is COMPLETELY broken now…Once in a while we buy something cold and a package of icecubes, but for the most part we are just eating things that either don’t have to be refridgerated, or are taking chances with things that are SUPPOSE to be refridgerated but arent. For example…I have discovered today that MILK will help with constipation if left out of the refridgrator for 24 hours.. Not enough to make you sick, just enough to be medicinal!

3.The stove/oven is somewhat on its last legs…We are down to just 2 working burners. We havent tried the oven yet, but assume that it works. We are trying to find a deeply discounted one, or slightly used one to replace the old one with, since most of the parts arent made for that stove any more.

4.The fresh water – well both tanks had more wildlife in them than water. We think one tank is leaking although we arent sure if it’s a tank, a fitting or a hose yet. The baffle ( a wall diving the tank in half so large amounts of water don’t wildly move from side to side while in waves) was completely broken in one of the tanks. This was allowing the huge amount of water in the tank, along with the huge metal baffled to slosh around the tank…Always wondered what that loud crashing noise coming from that tank was all about…We have found a paint to put inside the tanks to hopefully buy some more life from the tanks. We know sister-ships who have since replaced their water tanks – so we know we are on borrowed time with these 30+ year old tanks. So the tanks are clean at least now…but we still have to find out if the glue we used (3M 5200) to put the baffle backtogether will always be a source of poison for us to drink or not. Someone says it has arsenic in it to help it cure…

5.I have WAY to many clothes, and we have way too many books. The next several weeks will be spent further paring things down, in addition to getting the boat ready to depart! Patrick has about 6 tshirts, 3 of which he says he will throw out when they get dirty. I must have 50 t-shirts…so far I’ve been able to part with 3 of them.

6.We have a nice boat! Despite many systems still needing TLC I look around our boat and are so pleased with the progress since the boat came out of the water 3 years ago. She is our home, and both of us have spent hours lounging at night, beaming about how nice our home is coming along!

We are happy to be aboard, and feel so fortunate to be with another person that is as equally excited about this whole thing11…We can’t believe we found eachother, and that our whole adventure has begun!! 6-8 more weeks at the dock, and then we cut the cords, and take off!!

We hope you will follow our adventures on this web site! I will try to update it a little sooner next time!!! Stay tuned!