Zanzibar Marina, Tanzania, East Africa – A month at the new marina!

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Zanzibar Marina, East Africa, Tanzania, a month at the new marina! It’s the only marina in East Africa, and is barely open. It is also known as Azam Watersports Marina, or Verde Hotel Marina, and is located a couple of miles north of Stonetown. It is a safe haven for sailboats. It’s brand new, and barely open, but when we heard the price, we almost decided NOT to come….$50 per night!!! But then we found out if you stay for a month or more, the prices come down to less than half. So we decided to time our arrival to Zanzibar for the Sauti Za Busara Music Festival in early February.

It was to be a safe place to leave our home at a dock, with guards, while we spent until the wee hours of the morning, in town, listening to the great lineup of African musicians, for 4+ days. It was a great 4 days, and we never feared for our boat, our dinghy, our outboard or our possessions the entire time we were away. Guards quizzed us each night upon return until they got to know exactly who we were and where we were going. I would wish them a “Lala salama”, and they would assure me that only I would have a good nights sleep…not them…they would be awake all night to guard the premises!

For a month, we did laundry on the dock, took endless showers, and walked on and off the boat any time we wanted to, together or by ourselves. I sat in a free massage chair for an hour a day getting a luxurious foot massage some days, and total body massage other days, after having a cappucino on fine china. Patrick went to the gym twice a day and got in a good routine, enjoying the air conditioning, nearly as much as the workout itself.

Every once in a while someone would turn off a motor that needs to run for the RO water to come from our hose on the dock, and we would have to wait until the next morning for dock water. But with a quick call to the manager, it would all come back on again. We were there for the hottest part of the year…February…and an AC unit would have made things better during the day, especially since electricity is included. Free WiFi is available in the restaurant and the lounge upstairs with the great coffee bar. The manager told me they are in the process now of trying to include more for visiting yachts including some Watersports…kayaks for example, and Showers, toilets, and laundry. Right now, if you want laundry done it it some outrageous amount per item, at the hotel. We never once used this expensive system. We hunted for showers to sneak in to, but alas, there were none. They did finally offer some outdoor, unisex showers that are used for the ocean part of the water park, but warned us to keep our clothes on 😉

With a nice restaurant at the head of the dock (which does not serve alcohol) , we splurged and ate dinner here every 4th or 5th night. Other times we ate on the boat running to town every few days for cheap fresh veggies and expensive boneless chicken breasts. Luckily we still had lots of food in the freezer not only from Dar, but from Mayotte and even ReUnion, so we never went hungry!

The dala dala or a taxi can be caught right outside the gate of the hotel, and though they always asked for more, you could generally get a taxi in for 5000 Tanzania Shillings, a little over $2 usd. If you came back late late at night, it could be as much as double that, and again, they start at 3x the price they are willing to go for. The Dala dala (a small bus or pickup truck with seats) costs about 12 cents, so when we could, we would catch the dala dala and be crammed in to a small pickup truck with seats in the back. There are also a few tuk tuks though most rare.

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Kudat Haul Out

Kudat Marina(Small)

One of the worst places to haul a yacht out of the water is at Serangan, south east Bali. Avoid that place at all cost. It is expensive and the operators are pirates. But just 1,200 sailing miles to the north, on the north end of Borneo, is the small Malaysian city Kudat. In the well protected, but small, harbor is the Marina Jetty, Kudat. The marina has comfortable docking but very limited power plug ins on the two docks. Water on the dock is free and safe to drink without adding chlorine. The normally expected shower amenities and a small restaurant are in the two story facilities building. https://www.facebook.com/Marina-Jetty-Kudat-506851892774691/ It is a 20 minute walk into town. This is not a modern city like Kota Kinabalu or Miri but rather “traditional”. A bicycle is a big help for getting around but stand by the road and very soon a person in a private vehicle will stop to take you into town for R2 (U.S. 50cents).TravelLift

Next to the marina is a military contingent with plenty of small patrol boats. When we were there, well armed men, dressed in black and flack jackets toting M-16s made daily trips along the coast and did not return for 3-4 hours. A much larger Coast Guard boat left the harbor about every other day but always returned the same day. So even though the Philippines are only 70 miles to the north, where the bad guys live, we felt safe in the harbor of Kudat. The east coast of Borneo is also a no go zone for yachts.

We actually came to Kudat for the haul out facilities called Penuwasa Sdn.Bhd. penuwasa@gmail.com . A lot of heavy wood Philippine fishing boats come here to haul out so the Travel-Lift has to be big. It has a capacity of 150 tons and can take a boat 26’ wide so most catamarans are not a problem. In January, 2016, the lifting straps were nearly new and quite the overkill for a 14ton sailboat. They used far more straps than necessary doubled over or, on some sailboats, set side by side. This was one time I had no worries about our boat being dropped. The Travel-Lift is so big, we did not have to remove the head stay. To service the bent prop shafts and torn up propellers of the fishing boats, there is a full machine shop with 304 and 316 stainless available. If they are to busy to take care of your little job there is another machine shop about 2 miles away. IMG_0451 (Small)

To support boats on the hard, they use big concrete blocks which are normally used to build sea walls. Set with a forklift in 4 spots, large wood wedges are then driven between the hull and concrete to support the boat. Two wedges are used at each block support so when painting or sanding is done, one wedge can be removed at a time.IMG_0499

They have a real pressure washer to clean the hull. To get the pressure up they use a zero degree rotating tip and it does a good job.IMG_0348

For our 40’ sailboat, It cost us $250 for the haul and relaunch plus $15 per day to be on the hard, including electricity. We were stored in the dirt area which made cleanup not a question. We just picked up sanding discs, plastic etc although the Philippine fishermen seemed to have a competition who could leave the biggest and best scattered trash behind.

There is a concrete area a boat can be stored on and that cost $25 per day which can be a big advantage in the rainy season.

Each hauled boat is assigned their own shower/bathroom space with a lockable door. But the block of bathrooms assigned to the concrete area are much larger and better decorated than those used by the dirt area. The function is the same but the larger bathrooms do afford a degree of off the boat storage.

The Helper labor rates run R60 per day equals U.S. $15. About the same as at Vuda Point, Fiji.

This is what the yard charges for their help and they pay the help around $10 per day. We hired an “outside” helper and ended up paying the yard a small amount per day. We paid our helper Wan the full $15 plus several sodas during the day. Since he was there, Wan was gifted a lot of clothes, tools, and odds and ends which were no longer needed on Brick House. Wan made out quite well for himself.

Like anywhere, you have to tell the help that since they are working for a European, 8AM means 8AM, not ten after and quitting time is 5: not 4:30 or 4:45. Our man Wan understood this and did a fine job for us for the month we were hauled out. We expected him to work 7 days a week and most weeks he did.   Be sure to supply safety equipment for your helpers, Tyvek suite, respirators, safety glasses, ear plugs etc. We gave all that equipment to Wan when we were relaunched. IMG_0363

One of the best things about hauling in Kudat is that the haul out facility is not there to pounce on your wallet at every opportunity. After setting our boat on the hard, I finally decided the aft keel support needed to be moved 18” forward. It took 5 of their men, hydraulic jacks and a forklift, to do the work but there was no extra charge. And if you are launched and find there is a leak or other problem which means you have to be set back on the hard, all is done at a reduced rate.

Polyester resin and some epoxy resin is available plus cloth and painting supplies are available at the chandlery but it is far better to bring all supplies with you.

If needed, we would travel a long way, out of our way, to haul again in Kudat.IMG_0567

      The ladies in the office who keep things running.